After surveying the damage, I kicked back for the rest of the morning and visited with a Sierra Club outing group that was camped nearby. I was hoping the sun would break through enough to dry out my bag but when it didn't, I returned to Crescent Meadow that afternoon. I wasn't interested in spending the night in a damp sleeping bag.

Day One Friday, August 1

The morning of August 1, it was deja vu. I was back at Lodgepole Visitor's Center getting another wilderness permit for the trip I had abandoned just a week earlier. This time the weather was more cooperative. The first day was beautiful. Even though the valley of the Kaweah was hazy, it was sunny all day.

I was on track to make Precipice Lake as I crossed Mehrten Creek at mid-morning. The sky cleared enough to see nearby Little Blue Dome with the lofty peaks of the Great Western Divide in the distance. Just before noon, I stopped at my favorite rest stop in the valley.

Early that afternoon, I visited with the trail crew who were building a bridge over Buck Creek. Winter storms caused extensive erosion in Buck Canyon and wiped out the old crossing. I blew through Bearpaw Camp, stopping long enough to take a photo of a couple of High Sierra Camp guests with the million dollar view in the background. The next part of the trail is my favorite and I was rewarded with exceptional views to the head of the Kaweah River Canyon.

That evening, I ate dinner at upper Hamilton Lake, enjoying the magnificent surroundings and watching small trout jump for mosquitoes. Then it was off to Precipice Lake, a few miles and a considerable climb from Hamilton. I took it pretty easy that evening, stopping now and then to take photos, including one of Eagle Scout Peak. Each bubbling spring, there were more than I ever remember seeing, was an excuse to stop and rehydrate. Finally, I arrived at Precipice Lake and succeeded in finding a campspot with the help of a flashlight.

Day Two Saturday, August 2

After an excellent night of rest next to Precipice Lake, I hit the trail early and made Kaweah Gap at around 7:30. The trip to the gap was slowed by lots of snow in places I had never seen snow in August. I spent the rest of the morning in an unsuccessful attempt to climb Eagle Scout Peak. My first mistake was in trying to contour around to the approach from Kaweah Gap rather than dropping down into the Big Arroyo. I had to retrace my steps when I reached some steep rock and I ended up spending most of the morning getting to the base of the mountain. At the halfway point of the ascent, I realized that if I continued the climb that I wouldn't make it comfortably to that night's destination, so I bailed out and returned to the Big Arroyo. The Big Arroyo was especially lush for this time of year.

The creek crossings were more numerous and trickier than in past years. A half dozen streams flowed off the flanks of the Kaweah Peaks that were not shown on the topo map. I became concerned about my return route. I had hoped to return via Kaweah Basin and Pyra-Queen Col, but it seemed likely that there would be too much snow to make it a safe route. I would have to scope out the proposed route from the top of Mt. Whitney in a few days.

The trail continued up to Chagoopa Plateau. There were excellent views of the Five Lakes country to the west across the Big Arroyo. Finally! I was up on the plateau and heading toward camp. I stopped briefly at the turn off to Moraine Lake to take a photo of Big Kaweah. At 6:30, I arrived at Moraine Lake. What a pleasant surprise. I expected something a lot less lovely than this gem of the forest. There are numerous fine camping spots and a bear box to boot.

Day Three Sunday, August 3

The day dawned cloudy, but I didn't waste any time worrying about the weather that day because the views across the lake were so beautiful. To the southwest, the distant ridge was bathed in a pinkish-golden glow and perfectly reflected in the lake. To the west, the forest on the far side of the lake caught a sliver of light that sliced through the building clouds. The clouds remained fairly high as I passed by Sky Parlor Meadow. A little bit later the trail began dropping off the plateau, making its way down the Funston Creek valley. A covey of mountain quail played tag with me part of the way down. Finally, the huge canyon of the Kern River came into view. Before I knew it, I was walking up the Kern and passing by lovely Chagoopa Falls.

My next stop was unplanned and entirely enjoyable. I had bathed at Kern Hot Spring several times in the past but was not sure I had the time for it this time. A hiker who was just getting out of the tub as I passed by convinced me it would be a good idea to take a break and he was right. I really enjoyed the soak.

Showers fell off and on that afternoon, slowing my progress up the Kern River valley. Whitney Creek crossing was unbelievable. There was so much water coming down the valley that it spilled onto the trail and covered it for several hundred feet north of the main crossing. I ate dinner at Junction Meadow among Boy Scouts from Troop 85 of Fresno. After dinner, I pushed up the trail as the sun melted away behind clouds near Kaweah Peaks. The fording of raging Wright Creek, muddy from the afternoon's showers, was the most exciting event of the evening. I made it to that night's camp as the last light was disappearing from the cloudy sky. Water dripped from trees onto my bivvy sack all night long, but it didn't prevent me from getting a good night's sleep.

Day Four Monday, August 4

I got an early start and passed by the hikers at the main camp area near the bear box before most of them had stirred from their tents. I t was a lovely clear morning and before I knew it, I was talking to Crabtree Meadow Ranger Rob Pilewski. An hour later, Rob reminded me that I wanted to go up Mt Whitney and if I wanted to do it today I'd better get up the trail. I stowed my pack in the world's biggest bear box and moved toward the summit. Clouds were starting to build around the massive mountain as I began my ascent. I passed a few people between Crabtree and Guitar Lake, then saw no one else until I got to the trail junction on the crest. I met many people on the way to the summit. A wall of clouds was streaming up from Owens Valley and covering the summit at times. I heard no thunder, saw no lightning and could think of no decent excuses to turn back, so I continued up the trail. As I got to the rock shelter at the summit four Arizonans were celebrating their triumph and signing the register. I got them to take my photo next to the shelter. Photo opportunities were limited because of cloud cover, but I managed to get a good shot to the northwest.

The descent was made more exciting than usual by a hail and rain storm. In between showers, I managed to photograph some lovely purple and golden alpine flowers. I was happy to be off the summit since thunder claps were crashing from that direction. A lone coyote called from Hitchcock Lakes. As I passed by Guitar Lake, all the campsites were filled and their occupants were very concerned about tomorrow's ascent. It didn't look like it would be bad because the sky began to clear as I passed the meadows above Timberline Lake. I found a spot under the trees at the Crabtree Meadow "village," ate dinner and enjoyed an excellent night of sleep.

Day Five Tuesday, August 5

This day dawned without a cloud in the sky. As I passed by Sandy Meadow, it was hard to figure out where it got its name. I crossed paths with Troop 85 again and made it to Wallace Creek at around lunch time. Yoav and James were sitting on the bear box where they had set up the "Wallace Creek Deli". We struck up a conversation and they gave me a pita pocket filled with humous and cheddar cheese. Wow, was it great. Since they had brought too much food, they talked me into taking a brick of cheddar and a bag of crackers.

I passed lots of hikers that afternoon. Views of the Kaweah Peaks convinced me not to try going home that way. I briefly considered retracing my steps, but decided to go out to Cedar Grove instead even though I would have to get a ride back to my car at Crescent Meadow. Thunder clouds began to build again as I passed over the Bighorn Plateau where I enjoyed a spectacular view of the Great Western Divide. I shared cheese and crackers that evening with two Marines from San Diego and their two partners. It was a great end to a leisurely eight mile day.

Day Six Wednesday, August 6

Another beautiful day was in the making as I hit the trail toward Forester Pass and soon was above timberline. As I headed past the frog ponds, dozens of birds flocked in and around the rocks. Their chirping became more excited than usual. I soon saw the source of all the excitement, a small white-to-cream-chested raptor (falcon?) who took off after some of the birds as soon as I spotted him. One of the small bird gave chase. The "falcon's" wing speed was very rapid.

Clouds began to build up as I got closer to Forester Pass. At the base of the switchbacks, I met the first group of the day after having hiked alone for several hours. There was a little snow on the trail but not enough to cause any problems. There was a crowd at the top of the pass and I got one of them to take my photo next to the sign. The north side of the pass was much snowier and the trail made a major detour around a 30 foot high cornice. The trail was almost snow free below the cornice. Although it clouded up again that afternoon, very little rain fell so progress was good.

I had dinner at Bullfrog Creek. There must have been 20 tents near the middle Vidette bear box, so I pushed on to lower Vidette. I was the third and last party to arrive there that evening. I spent a wonderful evening around the campfire with David Ericksen and family. A bear dropped by just before sundown but we chased him toward middle Vidette. A half hour later, we could here the campers at middle Vidette whoop and holler when the bear arrived. He had a lot more to choose from up there so we didn't see him again that night.

Day Seven Thursday, August 7

I got up as early as I could so I could have plenty of time to catch a ride from Cedar Grove to Grant Grove. By the time I got to Grant Grove, it was 2:40, so I called home and asked Karen if she wanted to pick me up and take me to my car at Crescent Meadow or if she wanted me to continue hitch hiking. Thank God she said she would meet me. She brought the whole family who were happy to escape from 100+ temperatures in the valley and we had a mini-vacation for the rest of the day in the cool forest.